Just another day on the road…

19:00- A full day of cycling behind us, we have found our spot for the night and its right under a Baobab tree. The tent is going up and the soon the moon is lighting our campsite with a beautiful glow. We gaze at our beloved bicycles, now locked to a root of the Baobab, we know we will wake at regular intervals to check on them.

20:00- We are ready for bed, the sand beneath us is still warm from the days sun but the air cool. The breeze is gentle and sweeps over us as we drift off into a long sleep.

05:30- The first alarm screams in our ears. Its not light yet and now the moon has disappeared its darker than when we fell asleep. Groans can be heard before we both continue to sleep.

05:45- The second alarm sounds, we discuss the time, consider getting up before continuing to sleep.

early morning

06:00- The third alarm stirs us and reluctantly we peak our noses from our sleeping bags to see that its still not light. We fumble to find our smelly cycle shorts and discuss the stealth operation of leaving the tent whilst managing to avoid the savagery of the mosquitoes that await us.

06:05- Mosquito stealth fails; we spend a good five minutes killing the invaders in the tent. We realize we have camped on a bed of thorns and spend additional time removing them from our bodies, bags, tent etc…

06:30- Our morning wash stretches as far as tooth brushing but no further.


7:00- After our breakfast of two bananas and a vitamin C drink we are finally on the road, the sun is on its way up the air is fresh and cool.

09:30- The children in the villages we pass have woken up which means the chorus of ‘TOUBAB!!!’ (meaning ‘white person’ or ‘foreigner’) returns. We are tired and grumpy, the children run in front of our bicycles, we shout at them angrily and then feel guilty.

09:45- Hungry for a second breakfast we find a street cart cooking up egg and onion sandwiches served with a super-sweet mug of condensed milk coffee. Belly bliss.

10:00- We befriend another cyclist who lives in a near by village, a warning of the condition of the road ahead is given to us, though he is happy to inform us the road improves after 35 km…

11:00- We hit the rough part of the road. Its bumpy, very bumpy. The dust is in our eyes and we begin to experience a sensation of ‘bum burning’ as we like to call it.


12:00- Mikaela realizes she has lost another water bottle, this time the pot holes are responsible. For a brief moment consideration is given to following our route back, but it is a very brief moment before we continue on.

13:00- The temperature has risen beyond 40 degrees, we are sweating faster than we can drink and our heads are beginning to throb. Time for a long lunch break. We find some shade, lay out our blanket and settle down for a nap.

13:30- Children wake us up by asking us how we are. We respond in a bitter tone and then feel guilty. Its now lunchtime which means cheese triangles and peanut-chocolate spread (and I mean together in the case of Imran).

15:00- We have avoided the worst of the heat and its time to get back on the road.

16:00- Village stop, water refill. A local man tells that if we return through this route to England he would happily take the bicycles off our hands, to help us of course. We thank him.

16:15- A village mad-man squeaks past us on a very rusty bicycle with no inner tubes, he is singing and yelling frantically at us. Locals remain unstirred by his musings thus we do not worry.
16:35- A short bum-break becomes a long one as we get distracted by passing monkeys.


17:00- We reach the border of Senegal-Gambia. Immigration are pleasant and easy going. The customs official looks utterly bored as he asks us to list everything we have in the panniers. We approach using a bore-him-senseless tactic to avoid being searched. We begin to list everything, ‘Four t-shirts, two for each of us, one sports bra, two pairs of flip flops, some soap… oh no hang on I think we might have two bars of soap- is that bar finished?? No, actually one bar. Ten hair clips, four hair bands, errr, four pairs of socks, or is it five..? No, its four. Two books, one is an autobiogra-…’, ‘okay, okay. You are fine. Go please’. Content with our work we continue on. But alas, the plain clothed police officer has spotted us and requests that we empty each pannier discussing every item as we go. Resisting the urge to huff heavily we begin the tedious task, the medical bag brings the most lengthy search ‘that’s an anti-biotic, this is also an anti-biotic, this one is an anti-biotic…etc’. The repetition continues until he strikes gold with a mystery drug which he whips away from our hands and disappears with. He returns announcing it is controlled but as we are on bicycles he will ‘let us have it for free’. The drug is Lopermide, an antihistamine. After the long searches it is dark and we cannot clear the border for the night. The kind immigration officer advises us of an auberge we can sleep in. The corrupt police officer urges us to camp by the border because ‘these Senegalese are always plotting against you’. We assure him that we will be careful of any plotting and make a swift exit. He is excited for our return to the border when he tells us he will take some euros from us. We are less excited.

21:00- The owner of the auberge thinks we are mad as we put our tent up, turning down a bed for the night but we are content in our mosquito free home with the breeze washing over us.

05:00- We wake up and as though we are on a military operation, pack away the tent and head back to the border.

05:30- Keen to avoid waking the corrupt policeman we use hushed voices to convince an official we have already been through immigration. He appears to care little either way.

06:00- We avoid the policeman and with our emergency euros still in our pocket we cycle victoriously away from the border, our laughter filling the dawn air.


11 responses to “Just another day on the road…

  1. loved the blow by blow account of your day
    wow! as i sit here in slightly drizzly england – however happy to just to live your adventures vicariously
    and still amazed at the technology that means you can share it with us this way
    thank you and heaps of hugs and love
    Jacqueline and Stuart

  2. Grim and Grumps

    hi you two, just read your latest account, in parts it is very funny, glad you beat the border policeman, l imagiine he was hopping mad that you had gone through before he could fleece you of some euros, hope you can cope with the extreme heat, you are doing right of course travelling early
    /late before it gets too hot. Fancy being mean to little children, you should be ashamed of yourselves, still we would probably want to spank them. Dont get too crochety there is still a long way to go, and am sure there will be trying times, still it is good to beat the police now and again. lots of love to you both, always thinking fo you, but l have a beef casserole cooking in the kitchen and it smells good and is making me feel hungry, MEAN ARENT I.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

    • I think he must have been hopping mad, I like to think he looked like an angry character from a carry on film! We are coping really well with the heat (another bonus of the gradual cycling thing), our bodies are almost too used to it, on the few occassions we have a fan at night we get cold- in fact I caught I cold a fews days ago, funny world hey!?
      Yes, the parents tell us to smack the children but the European within cannot bring itself to smack another persons child! Though jealous of the beef (esp now, its 11pm and we havent had time for dinner) I am not jealous of the snow!
      Love to you both XXXXXX

  3. Did you manage to make contact with Barbara[Bee] in The Gambia ? She is back in the UK today 22.11.2010. Hot weather sounds wonderful to me, best you stay away until the Spring. Its dark here now by 4.00ish. At least you have 7.ooam till 7.00pm sunshine..
    Good luck,
    love johnxx

  4. Ricardo Denzileious

    A champion story of a day, I loved every moment, but particularly the last part. I can almost taste the small victory over the corrupt policeman…Mwahahahahah! Very Jealous of your epic life, normal lives of money and stuff pale into insignificance against such biblically enticing tales; the small comforts are the best.

    Best Wishes from a land with very little sunlight!

    • Ricardo, loving the name amigo, its got a classy latino feel to it… don’t play your violin to me using vocab like ‘pale’- you chose to move to Scotland, now you must live with the drab consequence.
      Missing everyone lots, especially today- we talk about all our lovely friends everyday and amuse ourselves by imagining what each of you would be doing/saying if you were with us. A bit like if you were dead. Weird that.

  5. Fabulous blog. Your honesty (and the tale of dishonesty) is very appealing. Also loved the photo of the toothbrushes and the photo of Imran on the road with the guitar pannier – that epitomises hard grinding work! Keep it up – you’re impressing us all.

    • Glad you liked it Matthew, so great to have everyone reading- though the last week has been pretty testing re internet access! We will be posting a new blog in the next 24 hrs which will have lots more photos and some new music too, hope you enjoy it! By the way, my nikon got stolen today, in what we though was a nice little village… very annoying/upsetting… think we will have a new one dhl’d to us pronto though.
      Hope everyone is ok, give my love to Mandy and let her know i’m thinking of her and getting updates from mum, love to you all X

  6. Ciao Imran & Mikcaela, Hard to believe that you still venture out with burning bums……what an opportunity you have It would be unherd of if I told my parents I want to cycle in Africa. Your legs must really be muscular …how do you like the food? “No red bull” hope you have plenty granoila bars. Nice to talk to you every now and then.
    We are all OK. not so busy Lubna and family are fine. Sharu decided to take Asian studies….pretty hard.
    This nuch fr now…no more puntures …watch the road…love Non

    • Hey non, the burning bums have improved as the road has! Food is fantastic, though we have decided it is better in Senegal than in The Gambia. No red bull, but they do have condensed milk coffee- which leads us to not have very toned bodies! glad everyone is well and doing ok, thinking of the family lots X

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